Green’s Dictionary of Slang

attack n.

the moment of starting a meal or dish.

1687
170017501800
1812
J. Phillips [trans.] Cervantes Don Quixote 389: [A]nd so saying, he made a second attack upon his Provant.
[UK]W. Combe Doctor Syntax, Picturesque (1868) 58/2: The Doctor then [...] pronounced the grace. That thankful ceremony done, the fierce attack was soon begun.